updated July 1, 2007
If you don't have a bluetooth
phone, you might want to consider getting one, unless you can find a place
in your car to install a rather large phone holder/cradle. See Ron
Stygar's non-bluetooth phone kit install. Since a bluetooth phone
can communicate with the bluetooth car kit through the air, you don't
need a phone cradle, in fact you could throw your phone into your glove
box or keep it in your handbag/briefcase/underwear and it would still
work through the car kit if it has bluetooth connectivity. (See also BobIn
California's E46 install using the BMW
- Blue Tooth Phone
- Appropriate Blue Tooth Phone Kit
- Aux In cable with pins 13 and 14 (female RCA jack)
- Snap connectors, splices
- Male RCA jack
- Volt Meter
- Wire cutters
- Traffic Pro removal keys
- Mounting Gear- see below
- Disconnect Battery (I didn't but you should)
- Connect Speaker Out to Aux In
- Connect Phone Mute
- Connect Power
- Mount the Phone
- Stash the Junction Box
- Place the Microphone
- Place the Control Module
Kardon's Phone Install instructions.
Like Ron, I use a Motorola phone, and a Motorola phone kit. Motorola
was completely useless in the install, the Installation Guide in the
online User's Manual
was a joke. I guess they expect everyone to use a "professional
installer"- but they had none to recommend. Two Tweeters stores
refused to do it. The manual that comes with the kit is better- see
diagram below. No matter, it's easy. There were 3 kinds of Motorola
phone kits. One
that uses the cigarette lighter adapter and makes use of none of
the Traffic Pro features and is cheap. One
for the non-Bluetooth phones the one that Ron Stygar used. Then
the most expensive one, the
Bluetooth phone car kit ($209). Some poking around the Internet
found the Motorola phone kit for
significantly less than from Motorola ($149). You'll see if you
read Ron's phone install notes he spent most of his time finding a suitable
place for the phone cradle and ended up giving up his armrest storage,
drilling, cutting. Uh uh.
it's highly unlikely this will have any effect on your electrical system,
better safe than sorry, disconnect your battery before you begin. Natch
if you do, you have to reset your clock, have your TP radio code handy
and other model specific-items- like in a Z3 reset your automatic windows
(hold down button).
Speaker Out to Aux
For Aux In you can get the kit from Becker and put the pins in yourself:
Originally Posted by TxnBluDvl:
I have more information re the HK Traffic Pro and pins 13 and 14. There
is a special part that needs to be ordered, Becker part number 1319.116-276.
It includes the pins and ends in one RCA out. All of this comes with
the Aux in kit. The two pins somehow turn into one RCA out, I'm not
sure how. I wonder if I'll just have to hack off the RCA input or if
there's a convenient radio shack way to mate to this RCA input...
Or you can have the fine folks at Continental
Imports add the pins and the RCA jack to my Blaupunkt Aux In cable
(p/n 7-607-897-093) for a nominal fee, like I did when I ordered the
Blaupunkt cable for my iPod install:
Pin 13 is positive,
Pin 14 is ground. You can buy the RCA female jack and add that
yourself if you like.
Cut off the kit
speaker. It's just plain speaker wire. Leave a lot of length, cut the
wire off near the speaker. I dont know what other use a person could
have for the car kit speaker, but waste not want not, leave a little
tail on the speaker. Then add the RCA male head on the speaker wire:
positive in the center, ground on the outside
speaker wire had a dashed line instead of a stripe to indicate
positive wire that went to the center of the male RCA jack.
so you will be plugging the rca male jack from the car kit's output
(speaker) into the female RCA jack added to the Aux In cable. Obviously
you dont have to use the rca jacks, but it's tidy.
So I had the Aux
In cable organized, here's the kit:
In my case I am replacing
the Red Traffic Pro connector with the Blue Aux In connector.
(See Ins and Outs to determine your
best arrangement. Depending on your car model and Traffic Pro model
you might be using the Red connector and wiring pin 13 and 14 into that
Next the phone
kit needs to connect to the Traffic Pro phone mute and connect to power
from your car.
From the Users Manual in the
Connect Phone Mute:
When they are talking about
colored wires, they are referring to the thin wires in the rainbow bundle
at the top of my photo above. Referring to the Ins
and Outs pages I found the telephone mute wire into the Traffic
Pro (chamber A3 for the 4771) and had one cousin splice it to the thin
orange wire. (Later Jon and I had to do it again because it needs to
be fished behind the console- oops.)
The thicker red, green and
black wires you see on the right side bottom of my photo I am guessing
would be used in a power connection that unlike mine, had to be set
up. DaveT had already done this for me while hardwiring my V1 radar
detector in February 2001. There are extensive photos and step by step
instructions on Dave's
pages on the Book of UNGO and MZ3.net
on finding power sources in the Z3 models. My
power connection is a bit different than most people's DaveT built a
"mating connector" for the connector in the gearshift boot
area of my car that is actually meant to power a BMW phone. I read over
notes on how he wired my car in the Book of UNGO pages. (He was
also building a mating connector for his Garmin GPS in his '00 Z3, don't
be confused when you read it.)
"If you are not hardwiring any other devices, it is extremely important
to cover the female snap connector on the red power cable with electrical
tape as insulation against accidental connections. Also cover the unused
male ground connector with tape. Since Rachel would be using only
the switched power for her V1, we taped her unused connectors."
switched and unswitched power: "When connected
to 'switched' power, a device will have power only when the ignition
switch is turned on. When connected to 'unswitched' power, a device
will have power as long as the car battery is alive and connected."
I am going to want
unswitched power, so I can continue a conversation uninterrupted if
I shut off the car during a phone call.
So... lucky for
me all I had to do was look for the taped unused connectors under my
gearshift boot waiting to be accessed (he used them for his GPS). Thanks
DaveT! To aid you in the search for power, use a volt meter to verify
that "Pin #1 is 12volts unswitched, pin #2
is ground and pin #5 was 12volts switched." More about this-
at least for Z3 owners- on MZ3.net in the article: "Finding
Power in your Center Console" by Vince Parsons.
Mount the Phone:
You dont have to mount the phone because the Bluetooth Kit has voice
commands for dialing and answering the phone and the Bluetooth connection
will work as long as your phone is on and in the car but if you want
to see the phone you can use any mounting
This is a Proclip mount
with a Proclip holder
This clips on to the console.
A great no-drill solution. But I need to use this mount for my iPod.
This Panavise mount goes
by the center vent at the dash, but I don't like the panavise holders,
so I screwed a Proclip holder (plastic) to the Panavise mount (metal).
The Panavise mount is
meant to be screwed into the body wall here- but I wont do that.
I have some heavy duty double stick tape and some heavy duty adhesive-backed
velcro to try.
Even without adhesive
or screwing it in, the mount sits pretty well.
The center vent holds it pretty well in place and the phone is light.
Stash the Junction Box:
The Motorola Bluetooth
Junction box is about the size of a cheese sandwich. I jammed it
in front of the gearshift under the HVAC- as carefully as a person
can jam something.
I tested everything out
before I placed the microphone.
Do NOT try to use this
as a route. The cover is holding up the doorbell chime speaker on
the inside of the console and it doesn't go through.
Place the Microphone:
To the right of the Z3
steering wheel is a knockout blank where the Euro Z3s have headlight
It's very easy to thread
the microphone cord to the junction box at the bottom of the HVAC.
I mean to drill a cutout for the cord in the blank but it snapped
in as it was..
I used some of the same
electrical tape I used to "fix" the check engine light
to "mount" the microphone.
It was meant to be temporary
but it works really well so I think I will leave it. Even driving
top down (windows up) the mike seems to be able to pick up my voice
well enough for callers to hear me without straining.
Place the Control Module:
So far I have left theControl
Module just in front of the gear shift, with it's cord squeezed
by the front of the gearshift boot. I could velcro it to the console
but it seems to sit there without it.
Night time drive is very
Blonde, James Blonde.
I am talking on my cell, getting in the car, turn the car on and
the phone transfers itself to the car kit. I put the phone in the
holder and keep talking as I choose my destination and select my
favorite tunes on the iPod. While talking, the Traffic Pro give
me navigation instructions, which my caller can hear. I hang up
the phone either by voice command or by pressing that round glowing
blue button on the Control Module. My tunes come on, sounding better
than the CD changer. (Works with the CD changer too.) The phone
rings, with a series of beeps through the Traffic Pro. I touch the
Control Module to answer, the music mutes itself. There is a phone
mute button on the Control Module if I need privacy or a firetruck
goes by. It's all just too easy. Really I don't like to talk on
the phone in the car, but if I have to, this is the way to do it.
End of the drive, if I am still on the phone, I just press the Control
Module for 3 seconds and the call transfers back to the phone. I
pick it up and leave the car continuing the call. Automatic. Wireless.
Controlled by Speed Sensitive Volume. One less reason for the police
to stop me.